How Drying Changes Color

Same Pouch,
Different Colours.

We coloured white test hair with ten of our powders, then changed one thing: how long each swatch stayed damp after rinsing. Five minutes under a fan, an hour left to dry, or ninety minutes in a towel. We photographed every swatch for three days.

The same paste came out as different colours. Which colour depended on two things — how fast it dried, and what was in the pouch.

10 powders

Soft Black, Dark Brown, Brown, Light Brown, Copper Brown, Honey Blonde, Auburn Red, Darkest Ash Blonde, indigo alone and henna alone.

3 ways of drying

Fan for 5 minutes, left to dry for about an hour, towel-wrapped for about 90 minutes.

Up to 4 photographs

At 90 minutes, 24, 48 and 72 hours after rinsing — colour measured from each.

The one thing that explains most of it

Indigo, the blue in every brown and black, is still forming after you rinse. How long the hair stays damp decides which way it goes.

Kept damp

+=the shade you chose

Indigo forms blue. Blue over henna's orange cancels out, and reads as brown or black.

Dried fast

+=warmer, redder

Indigo leans red-violet. That doesn't cancel the orange — it adds to it. Lighter and golden at first, red by day three.

And with less orange underneath, red-violet shows as itself — rose on Soft Black, lilac on Darkest Ash Blonde, plum on indigo alone. The chemistry, on our indigo page →

See Your Shade

Pick a Powder. Watch It Change.

Choose one of the ten, then step through the photographs. The colour strips show how each swatch moved, from 90 minutes to three days.

Colour strips are taken from the photographs, the same way each time — an approximation, not a colour meter, and photographs on different days differ slightly in light. Striped cells: not photographed or not measured at that time.

The Pattern

Dried Fast, Each One Went Somewhere Different

Kept damp, each powder settled close to its intended colour. Dried fast, they spread out along a line — and where each one landed followed how much orange was underneath the indigo. The two shades where henna leads didn't move at all.

More orange underneathNone
  • Henna aloneOrange
  • Auburn RedNo shift
  • Honey BlondeNo shift
  • Copper BrownDeep red
  • Light BrownOrange-copper
  • BrownCopper red
  • Dark BrownMaroon red
  • Soft BlackRose
  • Darkest Ash BlondePale lilac
  • Indigo alonePlum

Top: towel-wrapped, 72 hBottom: fan-dried, 72 h — named below

Shown at the same lightness, with the colour slightly heightened, so the direction of each one is easy to compare. The real swatches are darker — see them above.

Reading your own pouch

Ingredient lists run in order of quantity. Where henna sits — and whether there is any — tells you which way a fast-dried result is likely to lean.

Henna first

Barely moves

The colour is mostly henna's, which is in the leaf from the start, so there is little indigo-made colour for fast drying to cut short. Honey Blonde and Auburn Red came out the same all three ways.

Henna second, warm herbs high

Leans red

Plenty of orange to absorb the violet's blue, so what's left reads orange-copper, red or maroon. Light Brown, Copper Brown, Brown and Dark Brown did this.

Henna present, indigo dominant

Leans rose

Less orange, and manjistha's blue-leaning red on top. Rose to wine — often described as purple on dark hair. Soft Black did this.

No henna at all

Leans lilac to plum

Nothing absorbs the violet, so it shows as itself — pale lilac on Darkest Ash Blonde, plum on indigo alone.

This is the pattern across the ten powders we tested, not a measurement of the other shades in our range. Every shade, with its full ingredient list: herb by herb →

What this means for you

In every powder with indigo, the swatch kept damp longest came out closest to the shade on the label. On the two henna-led shades, Honey Blonde and Auburn Red, all three came out the same — drying slowly cost nothing there either.

1

Rinse with water only

Wash with plain warm water as often as you like; shampoo and conditioner wait 72 hours.

2

Wrap it in a towel

Keep it wrapped as long as is comfortable. In dry air, add a steamy bathroom.

3

No dryer, and wait

Not warm, not cool. Judge the colour on day three.

If yours already came out differently

Start with the page that matches what you see.

How we tested, and what that can't tell you

  • Each paste mixed to the ratio shown, applied to white test hair, rinsed with water.
  • Dried three ways: fan for 5 minutes, left to dry (~60 minutes), towel-wrapped (~90 minutes).
  • Photographed indoors at 90 minutes, 24, 48 and 72 hours; not every powder at every time.
  • The fan blew room-temperature air. We haven't tested a hot dryer.
  • Colour measured from the photographs, the same way each time — not a colour meter.
  • One swatch per condition. Repeating it would make the numbers firmer.
  • Test hair is bleached, which is porous; differences on natural hair may be smaller.
  • Our earlier test, with Light Brown and Soft Black: 1 hour against 72 hours →
  • First order with us and it didn't turn out? We'll send the same shade again, a different one, or refund the colour →